Chapter 19 - 2016-17 Visit to Sri Lanka Part 1 - Journey to Highest Mountain in Sri Lanka

Visit to Sri Lanka 2016 to 2017 – Journey to Highest Mountain Top

On the 29th December 2016 Ed and Ken, after saying farewell to Ruth, Christopher and Hayley and caught the 5.30pm bus at Yarrawonga that took them to Benalla where they caught the train to Melbourne. After a three hour train journey, it was raining when the train arrived at the Broadmeadows Station. We got off and walked in the rain to the bus stop where the Tullamarine Airport bus would pick us up. There were other travelers on the bus and we spoke to a couple who were going to Perth and another to Brisbane. We arrived at the airport and booked in, had a quick dinner and prepared to enter through Australian Customs. We were both stopped and checked for explosives in our hand baggage, but none was found. After what seemed an age the boarding call for Singapore Airlines was announced and we made our way to the boarding lounge and departed at 1.05am on Friday 30th December 2016 for Singapore. We were on the upper deck of the Airbus A380 and the TV in the back of the front passenger seat was a welcome distraction during the long 8 hour journey. Dinner served with a glass of wine, sleep was tried and breakfast at 4.00am before we arrived in Singapore at 5.45am Singapore time, on the same day.

We walked to catch the inter-connecting train to the next terminal and after checking in again were ready for the next leg of the journey to Sri Lanka. While the security checks were stringent Ken had not been picked up on the fact that he had a nail clipper in his hand luggage, but the presence of this offending item was picked up in Singapore and he had to forfeit it to the customs agent. We left at 9.00am Singapore time and after a 4 hour flight arrived at the Bandaranayake International Airport in Sri Lanka at 10.20am on 30th December 2016. 

Going through customs was a breeze and after picking up our luggage headed out of the airport to meet our driver who had been assigned to us by Jetwing Travels, for the duration of our stay in Sri Lanka. His name was Bandulla and he was waiting for us with his notice board. We introduced ourselves and he brought the Toyota Hybrid to the spot that he asked us to stand at. It was good to be in Sri Lanka on the day before New Year’s Eve as we had a day and a half to overcome jet lag and be ready for the 31st night. 

The drive along the freeway from the airport to Colombo was uneventful, but the Ken’s first experience of the traffic in Colombo was interesting. He could not get over the “Tuk Tuks” and their weaving in and out of traffic without crashing into each other.

The first hotel that we were to stay was the Grand Oriental Hotel (GOH) that was built in the 1800’s but had been refurbished and was situated in the Colombo Fort, within walking distance of shops, banks, etc. We were greeted by the hotel staff and experienced for the first time the hotel check-in procedure where we had to produce our passport to prove who we were. After the usual formalities we were taken to our room that overlooked the Colombo Harbour. The room was comfortable, with and ensuite with a bath and shower in the bath. We had a rest and after lunch tried to phone Jacqueline who had arrived from London on Boxing Day. My sister Marie and her daughter Natalie had also arrived in Sri Lanka for Christmas and Jacqueline had met them before our arrival. Unfortunately, Marie and Natalie had begun there tour before our arrival.

As I did not want to use my Australian mobile phone in Sri Lanka, we went to a shop near the hotel that sold Sri Lankan based mobiles connected to a local service provider and purchase a mobile phone that I would use during my stay on the island.

With my new mobile I was able to contact Jacqueline who advised us that she was having cocktails with some friends at the Galle Face Hotel that evening and would love to see us there. 

At the appropriate time we hopped into a “tuk tuk” and headed to the Galle Face Hotel that was not far from our own. What we did not know was that there was a carnival on the Galle Face Green and the traffic was horrendous, again giving Ken a new Sri Lankan experience.

We met Jacqueline and her friends, Andrew and Rachel and their two children and had fellowship in one of the reception rooms of the hotel. The refurbished hotel was luxurious and modern and the food and drink to our taste.

Later, two more ladies arrived to say hello to Jacqueline and her friends.

We had some food and enjoyed our first day in Sri Lanka. We said our goodbyes and decided to walk back to our hotel taking in the sights and the crowds on the Galle Face Green. Sri Lanka had built what was to become in the Guinness Book Records, the highest artificial tree in the world. It was a sight to behold. After jostling through the crowds and a couple of stops along the way finally made it back to our hotel. The walk in the night tropical heat was a good way of getting over jet lag.

Video of the sounds of Christmas/New Year in Colombo, Galle Face Green.

Worlds Tallest Christmas Tree in 2016

A rest on the walk back to the hotel

For a Buddhist country the celebration of Christian Christmas was a sign of the communal peace in the country and a service to the tourists who flock to Sri Lanka during the European Winter. Most commercial buildings, hotels, including the President’s Residence were covered in Christmas lights.

Our first night was not a pleasant one as the Police Headquarters that was situated next to the hotel were having a Buddhist ceremony that was broadcast on loudspeakers and this went on all night right below our bedroom window.

Police Headquarters from our bedroom window

We complained to the hotel management and the Jetwing representative in Colombo and were re-assured that it would not happen again. Ken slept right through the chanting, but I had to have a “nap” during the day to catch up on my sleep deprivation.

We had a hearty breakfast in the dining room that overlooked the harbor.

During the morning, Jacqueline came to our hotel and we decided to walk around the shopping centre in the Fort.

The pavements were in need of repair and the shops such as “Cargills” that in their heyday were the quality establishments had now become nothing more than a small supermarket with a fast food outlet. Of interest were the old window displays that had not been removed.

Old Window Displays from the time that Cargills served the Gentry

We next walked down Chatham Street, passed several shops and restaurants that had survived since the 1950’s and arrived at the Old Dutch Hospital Precinct in the Fort that had been converted into a shopping and restaurant precinct. We browsed through the various shops and as I did not have a hat ended up purchasing one from the Odel Shop. We also had a cup of tea and cream cakes at a coffee shop. Jacqueline also informed us that she had booked us for the New Year’s Eve dinner at the Galle Face Hotel.

Tea and scones at the Heladiv Tea Club.

The Ministry of Crab Restaurant.

Outside the Barefoot Shop.

We also went browsing at the Barefoot Shop that catered for tourists with Sri Lankan gifts and souvenirs. We decided to come back later after our tour to select souvenirs for the family.

We walked back to the GOH and Jacqueline caught a “tuk tuk” back to the Galle Face Hotel to meet again at 7.00pm that night. Ken and I then walked next door to St Paul’s Church and enquired about the time of the New Year’s English service and were advised that the service would be at 10.00am. We spoke to young person who was the caretaker and walked around the church, reading the memorial plaques to a now forgotten generation of Europeans who worked and died in what was then Ceylon. After this it was time for a rest before the New Year’s Dinner.

Memorial Plaque in St Paul’s Church

We caught a “tuk tuk” to the Galle Face Hotel and using the tickets that Jacqueline had given us, were admitted to the reception area where pre dinner cocktails were being served. Jacqueline came in later and we all went into the dining room that I had been in for the opening of the Rotary Conference of Cricketing Rotarian in Sri Lanka in 2005.

Galle Face Hotel New Year’s Eve Dining Room

Galle Face Hotel New Year’s Eve Dinner Smorgasbord

We met the other people at our table who were from England and elsewhere and enjoyed some lively conversations and a great dinner. Unfortunately, the band music was very loud and after desert decided to go outside to the Terrace by the sea where there was another band.

Before moving outside we took some photographs to celebrate the New Year function.

New Year’s Eve 2017 in Sri Lanka

On the Galle Face Hotel Terrace to Welcome in 

2017 New Year.

After wishing everyone a “Happy New Year” we had another drink and caught a “tuk tuk” back to our hotel. A good night was had by all.

The next morning being New Years day we woke, had a Sri Lankan breakfast and attended the 10.00am English Service at St Paul’s Church situated next to the hotel. The service book was printed in Sinhalese, Tamil and English and the hymns had a Sri Lankan flavor.

St Peter's Church

Choir Stalls at rear of church

Altar and pews

After the service we introduced ourselves to the Priest and members of the congregation who had stayed behind to enjoy Milk Rice “Kiribath” breakfast that is a tradition of the Sinhalese on New Year’s day. We had just finished our own breakfast an hour earlier, so declined their invitation, said our good byes and returned to the hotel.

While we waited for Jacqueline, I took some photographs outside the hotel and in the foyer, as shown below.

In the Foyer of the GOH and outside the hotel

Jacqueline picked us up in a Galle Face Hotel taxi and we went to the Odel Shop in Cinnamon Gardens. We looked at clothes, etc, but bought nothing. We had earlier made arrangements to visit my Aunt Christobel, so decided to walk across Vihara Mahadevi Park to her house. As it was New Year’s day and a holiday, the park was full of people enjoying their holiday.

Vihara Mahadevi Park lake

War Memorial

The Don Carolis Residence

We arrived at Aunty Christobel’s house and after ringing the bell on the gate, were admitted to the property by my cousin Christopher Carolis. We had a conversation with Aunty Christobel, Christopher and his wife Priyani.  Ken and Priyani had a long talk about the churches that they attended and before we left prayed with Aunty Christobel.

Foyer of Cinnamon Grand Hotel

As we were leaving on our tour next day, we went with Jacqueline to the Cinnamon Grand Hotel and had afternoon tea, after which we returned to our hotel and told Jacqueline that we would meet again in Galle.When we got back to the hotel we packed our luggage getting ready to leave next day and went to the dining room for a game of pool, but instead went on the balcony and talked and had several glasses of wine. On the 2nd January 2017 we had breakfast and got ready to be picked up for the start of our tour.

During breakfast we noticed the arrival of a cruise ship and took photographs of it’s arrival and docking.

This was the end of our first three day stay in Colombo and meeting Jacqueline and we were ready for the next 10 day tour of the South and the Hill country of the island.

The driver picked us up at 9.00am and he headed off through Colombo to get to the expressway that had been built to Galle. After a smooth drive and a stop at a roadside restaurant at which we had a cup of tea and purchased a bottle of devilled cashew nuts we reached Galle about lunch time and booked into the hotel that had been arranged by Jetwing Tours.

Galle Heritage Villa exterior and interior

The reason that the Galle Heritage Villa was selected was that it was in the Galle Fort and within walking distance to All Saints Church and other points of interest. The usual passport procedure followed before we were shown our room. I phoned Father Maxwell Doss about looking at the church, but he was unable to meet us until the next day at 10.00am.

We phoned the driver asked him whether we could tour the city of Galle and also visit the Closenburg Hotel where Percy and Ed stayed when they visited in 1992. We had a very refreshing cup of tea and a sweet and enjoyed the ocean view.

Closenburg Hotel and surrounds 

We later, met Jacqueline and together we walked around the Galle Fort and the Fort Walls.

We later had dinner and drinks at the Rampart Hotel that was recommended by Jetwing Travels.

Dinner at Rampart Hotel with some old pictures on the walls

Jacqueline returned to the hotel that she was staying at and we called it a day.

The next day I woke early and walked around the Galle Fort taking pictures of the various renovations of Heritage Dutch houses. The Galle Fort now has a United Nations heritage listing and some restorations would have been prior to this listing. Some good and others modern and out of place in a heritage listed city.

The Commanders Residence

Renovated Dutch Houses 

The next day we all met at All Saints Church at were welcomed by Father Maxwell Doss who gave us a rundown of the restoration that had taken place recently and introduced us to the retired public service engineer who was supervising the work. He was happy with most of the work, but had concerns about the peeling of the new paint work. I promised to talk to experts in Australia and advise him of their recommendations. As one of my ancestors, Reverend George Fredrick Schrader was instrumental in the construction of this church, our interest was an addition to my family genealogy project. Some pictures that I took are below.

All Saints Church, Galle, Sri Lanka

Reverend Maxwell Doss with his retired engineer and supervisor and his visitors 

Next morning we went for a drive along the road that skirted the beach, I was also interested in re-visiting the college that destroyed by the tsunami and rebuilt with funds raised by Rotary. After much asking for directions we were finally shown the way to the college, but when we got there we were not allowed into the grounds as the college was being used for evaluating recent student examinations. The buildings were in need of maintenance, but I was allowed to photograph the statue that was erected to commemorate the re-construction of the college.

Statue to the children of the college who were lost in the tsunami. 

A sea side stop to view some eccentric furniture made from tree branches and slabs with our driver and we returned to Galle we visited the Museum.

Our Driver

After we got back to our hotel called a “tuk tuk” to take Jacqueline back to her hotel. Jacqueline invited us to have dinner with her that night and we again took a “tuk tuk” to her hotel alter that evening. We enjoyed a lovely dinner and said goodbye to Jacqueline as she was going back to Colombo the next day and we took another "tuk tuk" back to our hotel. Ken was so fascinated with “tuk tuk’s” that we photographed as many as possible, with a few below.

The next day we started or journey to Bandarawella and on the way we were to stop at the Udawalawe National Park. Ken was comfortable in the rear seat as we made our way on the main highway to Matara and then took the back roads to Udawalawe where we stopped for a quick lunch followed by another for a cold beer.

We then continued to the Udawalawe National Park and Sanctuary to see many elephants, crocodiles, peacocks and birds of various varieties.

An elephant encounter on the way to the sanctuary












We had to hire a jeep with a driver and proceeded along rough paths that since the last road grading was badly in need of another grading. In one instance a mother elephant and her baby elephant came past the jeep at a distance of less than a couple of meters that made Ken jump back in his seat.

A video of mother and baby elephant passing by our jeep

Udawalawe National Park 

After two hours we re-started our journey to Bandarawella. This time Ken was happy to sit next to the driver as he felt that there was not much traffic in the regional area. What he did not know was that the driver had to get to Bandarawella as soon as possible with the 70 kilometres to Welawaya on flat roads making good time and then climbing to 1,000 metres in 33 kilometres on narrow mountain roads was going to be a hair raising experience. Ken was glad when we finally made it to our hotel.

The Bandarawela Hotel was built during the heyday of the tea plantation industry and was a week-end retreat for planters and their families in the early 20th century.

The usual routine with passports and we were shown our bedroom for the next two nights. Again, this hotel was refurbished to modern standards and the room and attached ensuite was comfortable. After dinner we had a few drinks and called it a day.

The next morning the breakfast smorgasbord was welcomed. Ken wanted to draw some money, so after breakfast we walked to town and after asking for directions were shown a bank flexi-teller that Ken used to withdraw the money he required.

Bandarawela Township 

Later that morning the driver picked us up and took us to Ella to see the gap in the mountain range, that on a clear day you could see the ocean to the west. This was fascinating and the pictures below show the road up the mountain. We also were fortunate to see the train from Badulla on its return journey to Colombo.

The Ella Gap

Ella Railway Station

We later started on a 30 kilometer journey to Badulla to visit St Mark’s Church.  We reached our destination about mid-day and were informed that Reverend Joel Jackson, the Parish Priest was at a meeting and would be returning soon. We walked through the cemetery to see whether we could find the graves of my Great-grand-mother’s family, but the head stones were in bad condition. Reverend Joel Jackson returned shortly thereafter and after taking some pictures in the church, he welcomed us to the Vicarage to meet his family and look at the church records.

My Great-Grand Uncle (Great-Grand-Mother's Brother)

St Mark’s Church, Badulla, Sri Lanka

Thanks to Rev: Joel Jackson O was able to take pictures of family entries from the baptism, marriage and death registers of the church. Ken had some interesting talks with Rev: Jackson and prayed for each other and the family. I noticed that the list of Vicars of the church included a Rev: E.A.Rowlands and Father Jackson advised me that he had retired and had suffered a stroke, but was resident not far from the church. 

I was fascinated to meet another “Rowlands” of whom I had no previous knowledge of. On meeting Rev: Rowlands and his wife I discovered that him father had converted to Christianity and had taken the name of Rev: W.E.Rowlands who was instrumental in his conversion. We exchanged email addresses and phone numbers and agreed to keep in touch.

When we got back to Banadarawella we tried to have a game of “Pool”, but the room was not open, so we walked to the Bandarawella Rest House to see whether we could have a game there, but again all we could do was have a beer. After this it was back to our hotel and lo and behold the Pool Room was open so that we could have a few games. After dinner we adjourned to the lounge for a few glasses of wine. 

The next morning, before we left to see my old College on the way to Nuwara Eliya, I walked around the hotel gardens and took the pictures, below.

Bandarawella Rest House where we had a beer

The driver picked us up at 9.00am and after loading our bags headed for Guruthalawa via Diyathalawa, reaching there after going on some very narrow tea estate roads. Nearing St Thomas’ College, it brought back memories of the eucalyptus forests that we used to walk through to get to the township to spend our pocket money on forbidden fruit and cigarettes. The only village shop would serve us during our time, but is now there is a large shopping centre in what is now a town.

We walked around the College grounds and buildings and met the Head Master and had a cup of tea with him. It was good to meet him and we said our goodbyes as College had just started for Term 1 and there were parents waiting to see him.

Pictures taken at St Thomas’ College, Guruthalawa in 2017

We now headed off to Nuwara Eliya, again climbing to nearly 2,000 metres in a matter of 40 kilometres on steep mountain roads.  We booked into the Grand Hotel after the usual procedure and settled into our rooms, before a light lunch of Pizza. After lunch we walked into town and enquired about a game of golf at the Nuwara Eliya Golf Club, but were told that we had to be introduced by a club member, which we thought was ridiculous, so we walked back to the hotel and had beer instead. The Grand Hotel is a 5 Star hotel with several lounges, so it was a good opportunity to relax and read.

The Grand Hotel, Nuwara Eliya

We arranged for the driver to pick us up next morning at 9.30am, after breakfast,  to attend church at Holy Trinity Church, Nuwara Eliya. The communion service was in English and a sung service and after the service me met the Vicar and spoke with him, but as he had another service to take for the Sinhalese congregation we said our goodbyes and walked around the graveyard next to the church and went for a drive around Nuwara Eliya.

The first place we visited was the entertainment precinct next to Lake Gregory and it was very interesting to see what the Government had done to provide a relaxing place for the people. There were jet boat rides and other craft on the lake, pony rides, games, etc.

We also noticed that there were a group of shops and that the vendors were in the process of opening for the morning trade. The people were well catered for and I am sure that during the holiday season this place would be humming with activity.

Then came a surprise that was not expected. I was talking to the driver about the times that I used to climb Mount Pidurutalagala with my friends and he said that there now was a road that had been constructed by the Sri Lankan Army and that he could drive us to the peak, where the TV stations and Air Force, etc had now install radio and TV towers. We drove to the Army checkpoint at the base that was not far from our holiday house in Chapel Street. We had to produce our passports and were instructed that we were not permitted to take pictures of the installation. The drive was not long and we were at the top of Sri Lanka. We walked around and enjoyed the view to the town and lake below and it brought back memories of the time that we used to be at the same spot some 60 years ago.

On Mount Pidurutalagala in 2017

After this we drove around to try and find the Rowlands family houses on the Mahagastota Hill (was know as “Rowlands Gardens” when vegetables were grown next to the stream at the bottom of the hill), but they had all disappeared. We also tried to see whether the Koinonia School that we funded several years ago was still there, but this had also ceased to exist.

We then came back to the hotel for lunch and later decided to try and get a round of golf. Maybe, being a Sunday afternoon with very little golf being played we were able to have a round of golf. We had to engage two caddies, who would carry our golf bags, but also be our guide when it came to driving from the tee and putting. My first hole put that I sank, after chipping on to the edge of the green, with some very good advice from my caddie was a screamer of maybe 10 metres. Ken could not believe his eyes. The rest of the round was mediocre.

18th Hole view to the club house 

View from the Verandah and the Club Room. 

After a fun round of golf we adjourned to the Club House and had a cup of tea followed by potato chips and a few beers, looking down the 18th hole and the sunset. We met a couple from Perth who were staying at the Golf Club and had a varied and interesting conversation about their stay in Sri Lanka.

As we were about the only ones at close of day, we arranged to have dinner at the golf club and enjoyed a rice and curry feed with a few more beers to wash it down, after which we walked through the grounds in the dark to the hotel that was next to the course.

Next morning we were heading down the mountain to Kandy.